Surfer Carissa Moore is on the journey of her life

When she spoke from her home on Oahu on FaceTime, which she shared with Untermann and her dogs dozing in the background, Moore often smiled a 1,000-watt smile – and her face only brightened up when she talked about the sport who has been at it of her life since she was 5 years old when her father helped her ride her first wave.

“Surfing is so many different things to me. It’s my sport, it’s my job, but of course it’s my lifestyle,” she said. “My escape, the place where I just hang out with my husband and family.” And while it’s her job, which generally involves getting up before dawn and requiring an epic amount of sunscreen (Sun Bum SPF 70, FTW), “I definitely think it’s still that much fun,” enthused Moore. “It’s still a great passion of mine, I don’t think that will ever change.”

In fact, an ideal day would start with “jumping in the water, surfing” with no looming competition involved. Then more physical activity such as yoga or a hike. “I enjoy walking our dogs on the beach or skateboarding with them,” she added, and then “a nap and good food.” (She satisfies her sweet tooth with green tea or salted caramel ice cream or the lemon crunch cake from the nearby Diamond Head Market & Grill – or her “go-to snack”, a strudel of vegan soft ice cream from Untermann’s store Banan, in Honolulu “Those macadamia nut honey butters they make are really, really good,” she advised.)

And if this all sounds like the epitome of chill … that’s because it is. Surf life may be talking, but Moore chooses it whenever possible. Even the life-plan-shattering news from March that the 2020 Olympics would be postponed by at least a year, she took calmly.

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